Joanna On The Trail

When my brother Brian mentioned he had a few weeks off before starting a new job, and asked if I wanted to join him in Rome, I didn’t hesitate. We live on opposite coasts and have busy lives, so extended time together is exceedingly rare. It felt like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity — and besides, I’d just retired. Saying yes to things is kind of the whole point now.

We spent four days exploring the city, logging 31 miles on foot — just over 7.5 miles a day! I’d planned to start my official hiking training this week, but between the hills and the cobblestones, Rome was a reasonable substitute.

We lucked into a reasonably-priced two-bedroom apartment right by Piazza Navona – perfetto! Each morning Brian walked across the street to the café and brought back espresso for himself and a cappuccino for me, along with croissants — pistachio for him, chocolate for me. I appreciated this more than I can say. Except for one morning when he texted that he’d gone to a “Scottish restaurant” instead. Turns out it was McDonalds – predictably not nearly as good, plus it cost about twice as much. I chalked his lapse in judgment up to jet lag and tried to move on.

The Tours

We did two half-day guided tours — the Vatican (Museum, Sistine Chapel, and St Peter’s Basilica) and the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, and Colosseum. The rest of the time we wandered, which turned out to be the best part.

I’m an atheist, but I was genuinely blown away by the Vatican. The scale, the artistry, the history — it’s staggering regardless of your beliefs. I can only imagine what it must feel like to visit as a Catholic. And yes, I took a photo of the Sistine Chapel ceiling, despite a strict ‘no photos’ policy. I regret nothing.

The Pope Shop

Wandering the streets near the Pantheon, we stumbled upon Barbaconi — a shop that has been outfitting clergy since the early 1800s. The window displays were filled with what I can only describe as pope robes and assorted clerical attire. As I stood there genuinely delighted, marveling at the unexpectedness of it all, a man walked past and snickered at me. Brian noticed his priest collar. I choose to believe he appreciated my enthusiasm.

The Fountain Situation

Skip the Trevi Fountain. Well — walk by to see it, because you should. But then make your way up Janiculum Hill to Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, which served as inspiration for the Trevi Fountain. Fewer crowds, better views of the city, and — while we were there — an endless parade of Fiats pulling up so their passengers could take Instagram photos. Perfectly posed, perfectly lit, and even perfectly matching their cars. Brian and I found this unexpectedly entertaining and may have lingered longer than strictly necessary just to watch.

The Food

When I told people I was going to Rome, everyone talked about the gelato. They weren’t wrong — Rome has great gelato (my favorite – banana 🍌🍨) — but the pasta is what’s worth writing home about. Of the four classic Roman pastas, only one is vegetarian. Cacio e Pepe (“cheese and pepper”) is proof that simple dishes can be surprisingly delicious.

However, I found best pasta I’ve had in my entire life off the touristy beaten path at URBE Cucina Romana at Mercato Testaccio — Asparagi e Pecorino, with a creamy asparagus sauce that I am still thinking about as I’m flying over the Atlantic right now. It was so good that Brian promised to perfect replicating it before I visit next month. If you go to Rome, go here.

On the drinks front: I learned that I cannot handle the bitterness of an Aperol spritz, which is considered a significant character flaw in Rome. I did, however, discover that I love a Hugo spritz — elderflower, prosecco, mint, and a lot less bitterness. Highly recommend.

The Best Part

The tours were great. The food and drinks were exceptional. The city is endlessly beautiful. But the best part was the hours of conversation with my brother as we wandered — talking about everything and nothing, the way you only can when you have nowhere specific to be and all day to get there. We got along considerably better than we did as kids. Growth is real.